You ever heard of Pitigliano? It’s “down there” in Tuscany, in the Maremma, near the Lazio Border. That border has some important implications. It used to be the border to the Papal States. Jewish people, fleeing the worst of the misbehaving Papals, settled in Pitigliano. There’s a 1598 synagogue to visit, although Pitigliano doesn’t have a significant Jewish population these days.
Outside the hill upon which Pitigliano is built is another interesting feature. Lots of rock-cut channels, said to be fashioned by the ancient Etruscans, run randomly through the countryside. Nobody knows what they are, although some, usually without basis, have strong opinions, just like politicians. So the whole area has this sort of mystical appeal. You can make up what you want about it. Like the ancients made this cool slot-car track and used to drive visiting Papals nuts with their little cars whizzing by all the time. This is a good story to tell in a bar. It almost guarantees an empty seat on either side of yours.
So I’d get me a partner who might laugh at my stories and we’d stay at Le Ortenzie to explore this extraordinary area. The kind folks that run the place say “Le Ortenzie is a small paradise midst in the beautiful landscape, near the towns Pitigliano and Sovana, which are famous for there ruins and discoveries from the etruscian time. Saturnia, with the wondrous water for the skin is 25km and the lovely sea by Monte Argentario is 60km away.” Ah, I’d forgotten to mention the wondrous water. Yes, a spa visit is recommended.
And really, Pitigliano is a wonderful walled hilltown with a fortress, called Orsini Fortress that you’ll want to visit for a day–or a week if you like ancient riddles.
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